Garment and garment construction



1955 s. D. VOGLER EIAL GARMENT AND GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Flled Aprll 14 1954 INVENTOR. SELMA D. VOGLER 8. MARJORIE NORTON BYQW ATTORNEY 2,725,566 GARMENT AND GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Selma D. Vogler, St. Louis, Mo., and Marjorie Norton,

Milwaukee, Wis., assignors to Angelica Uniform Cornpany, St. Louis, Mo., a corporation of Missouri Application April 14, 1954, Serial No. 423,028

3 Claims. (Cl. 2--74) This invention relates in general to wearing apparel and, more particularly, to new and useful improvements in underarm construction for womens outer garments, such as dresses of primarily sport or uniform types.

Heretofore, womens dresses, as made of light, Washable fabrics for sport or informal wear, as well as for uniforms of the character utilized in commercial establishments, institutions, and the like, have normally incorporated a single side seam joining the front and back panels and which seam continues along the sleeve to complete the formation thereof. Edges of the sections of cloth so joined will perforce project inwardly toward the wearers body and arm and, consequently, provide a source of unpleasant irritation in addition to presenting an unfinished appearance to the garment. Furthermore, in such constructions, a four-part underarm shield arrangement is utilized, the edges of which are engaged to the seam-forming edges of the front and back panels thereby enhancing the thickness and roughness of the projecting cloth edges. These shields comprise a generally quadrant-shaped portion secured to each panel with elongated portions being secured to each side of the sleeve in overlying relation thereto. The incorporation of shields of this character add measurably to the cost of manufacture since each portion must be independently stitched in place.

Therefore, it is a primary object of the present invention to provide an underarm construction for the bodice portion of womens outer garments which incorporates a continuous side insert extending along the garment side to the sleeve end and secured by a pair of spaced side seams.

Another object is to provide an underarm construction of the character stated which embodies a generally elongated side panel-forming section secured to the front and back panels of the garment along spaced side seams, with the latter being finished in a manner causing the edge portions of the joined fabric to be disposed fiat Wise against the wearer and, hence, avoid any undesirable irritation or the like.

It is a further object of this invention to provide an underarm construction of the character stated which incorporates a generally rectangular fabric section presented for forming a shield, and which is so affixed as to permit ventilation of the space between said rectangular section and the side panel.

It is an additional object of this invention to provide an underarm construction of the character stated which is adapted for use with garments having set-in sleeves.

Another object of this invention is to provide an underarm construction which provides a most pleasing, attractive, and neat appearance to the garment; which construction conduces to the long wear of the garment; and which facilitates the laundering and pressing of such garments.

These and other detailed objects are obtained by the structure illustrated in the accompanying drawing in whichnited States Patent f 2,725,566 Patented Dec. 6, 1955 Figure 1 is a side view of the bodice portion of a garment constructed in accordance with and embodying the present invention, with the right sleeve raised.

Figure 2 is a fragmentary side view of the inner portion of the garment bodice portion showing the side and underarm construction.

Figure 3 is an enlarged fragmentary side view of the inner portion of the garment bodice showing the side and underarm sections partially ripped with the sleeve inverted.

In the drawing, A designates the bodice portion of a womans dress, as of the type for sportswear, uniforms, and the like, made preferably of light, Washable fabrics and comprising a front waist panel 1 connected at its upper edge portion to a back waist panel 2, as by means of a shoulder yoke 3, or, if desired, along a shoulder seam. Front and back rear panels 1, 2, respectively, are provided with cooperating shoulder cut-outs 4 to form armholes for receiving a relatively short, set-in upper sleeve 5 with substantially parallel front and rear edges 6, 7, respectively, which are presented in continuity with the adjacent lateral margin of front panel 1 and rear panel 2, respectively.

Secured, as by stitching, on its opposite side edges to the outer lateral margin of front panel 1 and back panel 2 along spaced seams 8, 8', is an elongated insert section 59, the lower margin of which may be secured to a waist seam 10. Said elongated section 9 continues upwardly from the waist tapering slightly toward its upper end and forming a side panel portion 11 and an under sleeve portion 12, the latter being stitched to sleeve edges 6, 7, along seams 13, 13, respectively which are substantially continuous with side seams 8, 3, respectively. The upper end of elongated insert 9 is turned inwardly, as a flap 14, in conforming relation to the cuff 15 of upper sleeve 5, and is stitched at its sides to seams 13, 13'. The normally, inwardly projecting edges of the fabric panels joined along spaced scams 8, l3, and 8', 13', are finished by a chain stitch and the engagement of the upper portions thereof under turn-back flap 14 causes same to fold over or be presented generally fiat-wise against the adjacent dress portion. Hence, a smooth, non-irritating surface is presented toward the wearers body.

Disposed in overlying relationship to the upper inner face of elongated insert 9 is a rectangular, preferably fabric shield element 16, the side edges being secured to scams 8, 13, and 8', 13', with the upper end being received beneath turn-back flap 14 and stitched along a transverse seam 17 adjacent sleeve cuff 15. The lower or bottom edge of shield element 16 is unsecured so that access to the space between same and elongated insert 9 is permitted for ventilation and cleaning purposes.

The construction of the present invention, in addition to providing for the comfort of the wearer, endows the garment with an attractive finished appearance and, additionally, serves to materially strengthen the garment so that it will withstand long and hard wear. It is to be recognized that the unique construction of this invention can be used with garments having set-in sleeves and, thus, renders it practical for the customary type of washable dresses.

The details of construction can be varied without departing from the spirit of the invention and the exclusive use of those modifications coming within the scope of the claims contemplated.

What is claimed is:

1. In a garment, a bodice portion comprising front and rear panels, means securing said front and rear panels in their upper, shoulder-adjacent portions, said panels having cooperating cut-outs to form arm-holes, upper sleeves secured to said front and rear panels and set in said arm-holes, each upper sleeve having spaced front and rear edges, a narrow side panel secured on its side edges to the lateral margin of the adjacent front and rear panels and to the front and rear edges of the adjacent sleeve along spaced, substantially continuous seams, the upper end of said panel being turned inwardly to conform with the end margin of the sleeve in flap-like formation, said turned-in end being secured in overlying relation to the adjacent ends of the continuous seams thereby causing the joined edges to be presented substantially fiat-Wise against the body of the bodice portion, and a generally rectangular shield element provided in covering relation to the inner upper portion of said side panel, said shield being secured along its vertical side edges to said continuous seams, the upper end of said shield being received beneath said turned-in upper end of the side panel, said shield being free in its lower edge to allow access to the space between same and the side panel.

2. In a garment, a bodice portion comprising front and rear panels of waist length, means securing said front and rear panels in their upper, shoulder-adjacent portions, said panels having cooperating cut-outs to form arm-holes, short sleeves secured to said front and rear panels and set in said arm-holes, each short sleeve having spaced front and rear edges, a narrow side panel secured on its side edges to the lateral margin of the adjacent front and rear panels and to the front and rear edges of the adjacent sleeve along spaced, substantially continuous seams, said panel terminating at its lower end at the waist-margin of the bodice, and tapering inwardly and upwardly therefrom, the upper end of said panel being turned inwardly to conform with the end margin of the short sleeve in flap-like formation, said turnedin end being secured in overlying relation to the adjacent ends of the continuous seams thereby causing the joined edges to be presented substantially fiat-wise against the body of the bodice portion, and a generally rectangular shield element provided in covering relation to the inner upper portion of said side panel, said shield being secured along its vertical side edges to said continuous seams, the upper end of said shield being received beneath said turned-in upper end of the side panel and being secured to the side panel along a transverse seam beneath said turned in upper end of the side panel, said shield being free in its lower edge to allow access to the space between same and the side panel.

3. In a garment, a bodice portion comprising front and rear parts, sleeves secured to said front and rear parts, each sleeve having spaced front and rear edges, a narrow side panel secured on its edges to the lateral margin of the adjacent front and rear parts and to the front and rear edges of the adjacent sleeve along spaced, substantially continuous seams, the upper end of said panel being turned inwardly to conform with the end margin of the sleeve in flap-like formation, said turnedin end being secured in overlying relation to the adjacent ends of the continuous seams, and a generally rectangular shield element provided in covering relation to the inner upper portion of said side panel, said shield being secured along its vertical side edges to said continuous seams, the upper end of said shield being received beneath said turned-in upper end of the side panel, said shield being free in its lower edge to allow access to the space between same and the side panel.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,477,218 Guinzburg Dec. 11, 1923 2,094,643 Fellroth Oct. 5, 1937 2,426,819 Clyne Sept. 2, 1947 

